Dijon is one of those cities that you discover at your own pace. Last year, a live presentation organized by France Today brought together practical tips from Susie, from the YouTube channel Fired Up in France, an American who has been living in Dijon for over 20 years. I followed her with great interest, and I wanted to share the highlights, complemented by some tips from my daily life here.
Getting to Dijon and getting around
Dijon is about 1 hour and 40 minutes from Paris by TGV, and the train station is right in the city center. For a stay of a few days, there is no need to rent a car: the historic center is compact, mostly pedestrian, and is very easy to explore on foot. To go further, the tram accepts contactless payment, and a free electric shuttle makes a loop in the center.
Follow the owl
Start with the Owl Trail: small bronze arrows embedded in the ground guide you past the main monuments. The tourist office sells a booklet that explains each step, and several short loops are offered, to choose the duration of the walk. The owl sculpted on the Notre-Dame church is the symbol of the city.
Museums, views, and market
- Palace of the Dukes and Museum of Fine Arts : one of the great museums of France, located in the former ducal palace, where the tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy rest. The municipal museums of Dijon are free, and closed on Tuesdays.
- The Philippe le Bon Tower : the guided ascent offers a view of the entire historic center. It is recommended to book in advance with the tourist office.
- The Halles : very lively on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday mornings, and a meeting point for the people of Dijon over a drink.
- The International City of Gastronomy and Wine : a place dedicated to gastronomy and wine, opened in 2023, with events, restaurants, and a cooking school.
Eat and drink like a local
Start with the regional classics: a kir (white aligoté wine and crème de cassis), gougères, jambon persillé, gingerbread and œufs en meurette (poached eggs in a red wine sauce). And of course, Dijon mustard, which can be tasted in the city center.
A train trip to Beaune
Beaune is only about 30 minutes from Dijon by train: no one has to drive, and everyone can taste the wines. Combine the Hospices de Beaune, a tasting, and a good lunch for a complete and easy day.
Understanding Burgundy wine before tasting it
A piece of local advice worth repeating: to make sense of Burgundy, taste with someone who knows how to explain it. In the presentation, my workshops have been recommended as a place to learn how wines and cheeses pair, and how wines from the same vintage differ. This is exactly what I love to convey, in a vaulted cellar in the heart of Dijon, in a small group.
Want to taste Burgundy with a local? Book a wine and cheese workshop in Dijon.
Video credit: live presentation "Dijon" from France Today with Susie from Fired Up in France.